Dizzy

Yeah you're right, the crown position does look really good. Whole new case just for this movement option.. but why the Yachtmaster? Why not the 16610? I would LOVE to see some pictures of this 3035. Its gotta be a gen for $2500 but how did the manufacturer of the watch get hold of a bunch of gen movements? If they finally copied it then we are about to see the newest generation of super-reps... I think we're gunna see a lot of crazy reps im the next 6 months or so Lonnie

i guess i just dont understand why the watch costs to much.. its not like ceramic is an expensive material and even carbon fiber isnt expensive. Its only expensive because it the "new and cool" thing right now. I'll wait till next summer and buy a new one for $350 from a dealer here.

yeah TTK is right. It would take some force to scratch even with a diamond. Just dropping the watch in a bag with some diamonds and shaking it up wouldnt stratch the crystal, not a chance. I would be willing to bet that its mineral glass except i have seen some pretty nasty scratchs on real saphire.. A friend of mine bought a used BCE and its got a big scratch across the crystal and it needs to be replaced. Those 'water drop' tests and such seem to yield some pretty random results sometimes and i would never trust them... if its actually saphire, then you must have smacked it pretty hard against either a diamond or against another saphire crystal on someones watch. Lonnie

Well i guess i should post some too.. this is a Gen Breitling Chrono Colt quartz, that i picked up today.. stainless steel and si diamonds. Its apparently 41.5mm but it feels smaller than that to me. Its not for me its for my girlfriend.

wow thats rediculous. Im sure they are making a HUGE profit off these because of their popularity right now. I also thought this website was to inform and protect people againt scammers. Anyone who pays $900 for these with the ASIAN 7750 is crazy IMHO Maybe i am wrong because i have never seen one in real life. Are they really THAT good? Even the BCE with swiss ETA7750 is cheaper than the Asian HBB Lonnie

remember, replicas are illegal. Why are they allowing you to come see what they have in stock? That just doesnt make sense. I would proceed cautiously here, you never know what you are walking into... Lonnie

you just wanna heat it, not burn it. If you use a lighter it will blacken the surface a bit but it wipes right off Lonnie

Looks like an older dial or an airking dial or something.. still nice tho. Whats the crown from? Is that a triplock? Lonnie

Fake dial blanks! Thats funny. haha I never would have suspected that. I didnt think the singer stamp was a big deal anyways and i never thought it was a real Rolex dial. I just figured Singer was some big metal machining plant that made billions of high quality generic blanks for watch companies... Good info anyways! cheers Lonnie

excellent post!!!!! I've always used the auto levels and auto color but my pictures still dont look as good as yours My 'after' pics look like your before pics.. but im learning! cheers Lonnie

What the hell is going on over there? LOL Lonnie

Well let me ask this first.. Is Klink retarded or does he just not speak english well? Half his responses to posts dont even make sense. Seems a litte stange for a Moderator. Maybe Klink is related to gollum? The kinda talk the same haha I'm glad Pugs here with us. Hes been a big contributor to this forum. I like how when you now go to RWI and look at one of Pugs posts or reviews.. all you see are the pics about who stole his bucket LOL Life is good? wtf? LOL

You scare me LOL I think you need to post a tutorial/entire section relating to your modding techniques. I would like to see how you do this spray varnish thing that you speak of. I agree that a gen crystal is a must.. you can even get one from Clarks for about $15 if you are on a budget. Im gunna use a clarks on my 1680 project. I already have it here waiting. Lonnie

Usually comes out easy with your knife? Are you serious? haha I also have a noob bracelet with two stuck screws. Try heating the link with a lighter then try removing the screw again. I would suggest getting some proper tools before you strip the head of the screw. Lonnie

very nice!! This is my next project i will be working on. You just need to polish the exgraved lines out of that fliplock on the buckle. That can be your first mod! Lonnie

Looks like you are off to a good start! Welcome to the forum Lonnie

oh god.. watchmaker9? haha he full of [censored]... his $500 submariners are nothing more than Noobmariners and you can get them from TTK for about $100. His pictures of the F520117 serial number proves that its nothing more than a Noobmariner case, end of story. This has been discussed many times. The problem with the GMT reps is that they use cases that are way to big. The old Vintage GMT's are very thin watches kind of like a datejust or something. As far as i know, even the new "retro" GMT reps are too big. Building a proper vintage GMT is very difficult. What version GMT is your dial and crown from? can you post some pics and maybe Nanuq can tell you what its from. Hes one of the many resident GMT masters (pun intended) Lonnie

HA HA are you serious? well ya the watch isnt exactly something i would look twice at, but that car is one of the hottest cars on the road.. just look at that front end and those sexy lines LOnnie

I have no idea how the dial is attached. Some MBW's actually come with Singer dials. I just assumed it was one of the old MBW singer dials that probably came with the watch? (This dial was in the watch when i originally bought it) In that case its prob got the little legs on it. If its not an MBW dial then its prob glued or double sided taped in place. It might be an old Rolex dial thats been redone, I dont honestly know, but im happy with how it looks I just took a couple shots of another MBW dial i have for a Great White. Notice on the back that its stamped SINGER. This dial seems a little heavier and maybe a bit thicker than a regular replica submariner dial. Lonnie

LOL interesting post but I too must vote "other". The skull and crossbones is ok on the pre-V buckle but that chrome rounded one looks funny. I really like how the anchor is cut all the way through though... but i'd prefer to have neither logo on my clasp Lonnie

i've always been in love with the Noob Heres a pic of mine.. slightly modded of course

thanks for the comments!! All i can say is that you better practice on a junk case first. You drill from the inside but you need to get the angle exactly right so the holes come out in the right spot otherwise it will look completely wrong. I didnt use any special tools except a 14.4volt cordless drill and cobalt bits. I didnt even have a vice. I just held the case using leather work gloves and drilled through into my work bench. Took a couple hours and my hand was sooo sore after but it turned out fine. Drilling the noob bracelet was 10x harder becasue you have a long hole to drill. I used gen springbars so the hole in the SEL is over 2mm diameter. Be careful not to break your SEL as i did the first try. whoops haha cheers Lonnie

Well this is my first offical mini-review/pictorial here on RWG. I really enjoy the reviews by the other members here and i thought it would be time to put together my own to show you my new creation. The holy grail of Vintage Rolexes... the 1665 Sea-dweller! I've been wating years and years for a perfect replice Sea-Dweller and of course i have never found it. A few months ago i discovered this forum and discovered all the things that you can do to make a watch almost perfect I have a lot of people to thank for all the info and help they gave me along the way, especially The Zigmeister for bringing the dead movement back to life and fixing the crooked dial. Theres a bit of history behind this watch and i guess i will fill you in. I bought this already modded watch off another member of this forum and it had some serious problems that i wasnt told about. One being the BROKEN escape wheel inside the "freshly serviced movement" uhhh huh.. and the crooked mounted dial. It already had installed a gen crown and tube, gen superdome, worked crown guards and good bezel insert etc. Anyways now its almost complete except I might install a gen 1570 cal movement later on. specs: Vintage MBW 1665 Rolex Sea-Dweller with correct thickness case and bezel Fresh The Zigmeister serviced 'slowbeat' ETA with good centered date font. Accurate within +/- 2 sec per day Ubi flat top 3 datewheel ready for future install Gen T-39 superdome Gen Triplock crown and tube Vintage (slightly fading to dull matt brown) The Zigmeister-lumed SINGER double red dial and aged clark hands Aftermarket bezel insert and correct vintage pearl polished bezel with good sharp teeth RE-WORKED crown guards and case (vintagized) Drilled and beveled lug holes and 2mm gen spring-bars installed Visually re-worked HEV using some black paint to enhance the area around it giving it depth. Franken solid midlink bracelet made from 4 different 93150's Entire case and bracelet reworked for proper vintage look and feel. Correct fliplock with engraved lines removed. Bracelet severely vintagized, oiled and polished many times. I've got gen 580 endlinks but forgot to install them before i took the pics whoops. Caseback has now gone through its first round of the vintage process but needs more to soften the lettering Heres some pics: Here you can see how thick the oyster case is on this sea-dweller. Have a look at the end link, thats off a Submariner. The case is noticably thicker and so is the bezel. Here you can see how heavy and thick this bracelet is And you can also see that the midlinks are solid which is correct for this vintage. I REALLY dont like the new hollow link bracelets wether its "correct" or not. It makes a BIG difference in the feel of the watch. Heres the gen triplock crown and tube I just love when you unscrew the crown and you see that thick tube and rubber o-ring hiding in there. I love this clasp especially the deeply stamped lines. Notice the correct smooth fliplock without the lines engraved. It had the lines but i used my dremel to 'erase' them Turned out pretty good i think. The new bracelets have the lines in the fliplock but the old oysters did not. This is correct and same goes for a 1680. You can see how i used black paint to fill in the engraved part of the fake MBW HEV. Looks 100x better now becasue you can see more detail and it actually looks real now. Was a 10 second modification. This was after round 1 of my caseback vintagizing process.. A few more rounds with the grinder and polisher and it will look more genuine New pics.. i got these vintage box sets off ebay about 10 yrs ago.. im sure they are fake but they look nice anyways Last shot.. this is a pic with my MBW16610 franken that i got back together today for a test fitting. I finished filing the bracelet too. Its going over to Master The Zigmeister soon for some C1 lume woo woo!! Well thats it for now.. Im just glad i finally have a Sea-dweller!! Let me know what you think. I know its not 100% correct but its just how i want it and im happy with my new daily beater. I think i am gunna for sure drop in a gen 1570 when i find one for a good price. Now my modded noobmainer just sits on my desk but i rest at night knowing that its been replaced by something much better! Thanks again everyone who helped me along the way! cheers Lonnie

HA HA HA yes lets see them!! One member has a one new one that really catches your eye but im not gunna rat him out becasue i like it LOL Lonnie

Exactly!! You guys notice how many "Paul Newman" daytonas are on ebay lately? wow i thought these were "rare"?? lol I guess the GENUINES are rare but theres prob a million super-frankens floating around out there now and most are prob being sold as Gens for up to $40k. I would never buy a vintage or expensive (ie daytona) Rolex these days without having it checked by an AD first. Not even your average watch maker would suspect this DRSD to be fake i bet, unless it was a "rolex guy" like some of us. Look at some of the daytonas that "DW" or Ubi built.. those would fool just about anyone i bet. Scarey stuff. After all a Paul newman daytona is only about a $2000+ watch.. BUT you are paying for the brand, history, authenticity, rarity and "coolness factor" when you pay $40,000 for one. I would be [censored] if i bought this watch thinking it was all original and later found it it was a fake case with some gen parts and some high end craftsmanship. Its prob only worth 10x less than a 'real' 1665 DRSD. Lonnie