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Hello! I'm looking for the Rolex Rex of an old Master. If you have any suggestions, please contact the PM. Nick

I'm thinking about rolex daytona recently. What is your opinion on A7750 with working chronos? I know it's 2,5mm thicker than a gen. My PAM is 14mm and it's already massive not to mention smaller rollie. To be honest new 13mm daytona made of 904 looks really amazing! I know it has frozen chronos due to 4130 but it's quite slim. What's your opinion on this one? I'd like to hear from someone with 7750 daytona Thanks!

I am trying to finish this project a 1655 conversion to 1675, I have a Gen dial or so I was told, but I noticed the Dial is too small for the dial opening and is almost impossible to center it. So I need a replacement Dial I saw the Yuki ones, is there another source? Thanks Ivan

Hey... I'm from Singapore. I'm looking to purchase a Rolex DeepSea. Any recommendation from a trusted seller please? Thank you in advance.

I have previously shared this on RWI and I will share it here as well - you guys seem to be the technical / OCD Rolex builders so I hope you will enjoy the pics And after waiting and researching for nearly a year trying to source the right parts... Theme of the build = a classic 14270 Rolex that has been through RSC (hence this 14270 will have lug holes AND superluminova dial and hands) Here are the ingredients - Gen 36mm Datejust 16233 E-series case (took me bloody 6 months to find one in decent condition) - Gen 36mm Datejust smooth bezel - Gen 14270/114270 Swiss Made dial (bloody rare to find) - Gen 603 crown - Gen Submariner seconds hand - JF 16610 LN minute + hour hand - JKhorological Swiss 25-295 crystal - Serviced Yuki 3135 from tickleshoes ...... still in search of a hollow link 78360 rep oyster bracelet The watch is practically gen at this point. If i pair it up with my gen 62510h bracelet, then it's visually indistinguishable to gen so here is my gen 16200 Datejust case that arrived via fedex Left case is gen 16200 datejust case; right case is a replica 16200 case for 2824-2 movement The rehaut is much wider (in terms of diameter) and less wokky on the gen 16200 datejust case Also, the lugs are thinner on gen case (even though my gen case has probably been polished before) Left case is gen 16200 datejust case; right case is a replica 16200 case for 2824-2 movement Crown height and case thickness is pretty much the same for both cases I installed the Yuki 3135 with the gen 14270 dial into the gen case first The usual ETA movement tab screws didn't fit between the gen case's side and the yuki movement, but luckily i have some spare gen-spec 3135 movement/case screws and they were thin enough to fit in between the gen case and the yuki movement Then I proceeded to install the hands, crystal, and gen smooth bezel And here is the final results (paired with my gen 62510h jubilee bracelet with 555 end links - but i am desperately in need of a rep 78360 hollow link oyster bracelet) At this moment, the watch is pretty much gen externally and there is no definitive way to tell that it is a franken or replica by just looking at it externally Lume shot! - the JF minute and hour hands have the same lume colour and brightness as the gen Rolex dial lume and gen Rolex seconds hand lume

Hi all, I'm new here... My name is Lorenzo and I live in Italy... A friend of mine would like to sell a gen Rolex 1501 without movement (as far as I know it should be fitted with a 1570) I have a simple question for you : is there any chance I could fit any rep movement (or any gen ETA) in that case? The watch has everything but the movement (Case,Bracelet,Dial,Hands,Crown,Bezel...) Anybody could help? Many thanks!

After hours of evaluating the best choices for sub hands... Clarks/Watchman 'Tudor' hands = seconds hand has the wrong proportions (i.e. the dot behind the seconds hand's pinion is too close), hour hand has the wrong rectangular lume proportion? the hands are a bit shorter than gen 3135 sub hands (because it seems like Tudor hands were always shorter than Rolex counterpart hands), no 3D-looking polish, poor lume? Startime 'Tudor' hands = seems like it has same problem as the Clarks hands, except the seconds hand looked improvement proportionally (i.e. the dot behind the seconds hand's pinion is further away like gen) Raffles = hour hand's rectangular lume area has skinny proportion that isn't gen-like (and commonly associated to lower-end or cheap reps), poor lume TC V2/V3 = best ETA sub hands ever made (i.e. tapered front on the seconds hand, 3D-looking polish, correct dimensions with correct rectangular lume area/location, capped pinion on v3, pointy ends, excellent lume)... but TC is gone Overall = TC hands were hands-down the best sub hands ever made - period. But now that TC stuff is pretty much discontinued, the second best seems like to be Startime? Any idea what the best available ETA Submariner hands? Have I missed out on better alternatives? Can someone please recommend me the best ETA Submariner hands out there? i have spent a long time researching and it seems like the current market for ETA Sub hands have a combination of fatal flaws Thank you!

New here and to the game in general. Trying to do my research but it's a tangled web. Have a budget of $300-$600 and looking to get the best quality, most accurate rep in that range. Ideally a GMT Batman V7. Better to buy direct from the factory or from a dealer on here? Cane across a website xxx.com Any feedback on that one? Many thanks

Hey I'm new in this community, and looking for some assistance. I'm looking to buy a Rolex Submariner 116610LN replica. I've seen a few names in here, NOOB Factory, JF Factory and BP Factory, but since i don't have much experience with replica watches, i don't know what to go for. And beyond that, don't know where to buy it from. I'm looking for an "Original" looking Rolex, within' 400$ - 500$. (Please comment possibilities beyond this, if you know any) Btw, the luminescence is quite important to me, don't know why but i seem to really love that feature - (Not sure it i matters, since most watches i've seen seem to have a great lume.) - Thanks in advance! Best regards

I moved to Florida back in January and noticed that everybody wear some kind of Rolex model. I am thinking that the market here is better for the buyer or i could be wrong. Maybe Floridian like to pretend they have money like me with a fake Rolex. lol! many of the one I had seen look Gen watches, I could be wrong.

Fellow members I am looking to replace the bracelet on my 6263 Daytona with a Gen bracelet. If anyone has a 19mm 78350 Gen Bracelet for the 6263 Daytona please pm me. Any information will be greatly appreciated.

Hi ladies and gents! Got these QC-pics. Think they look good, what do you think? /Akilles

I wanted to share pictures of my Daytona build that I received not to long ago. This project started sometime last year. I knoew what I wanted but was not really familiar with the technical aspects of the build. Parts, movements, etc. After doing alot of research I reached out to Rolojack and asked if he would be willing to make me something pretty special. I decided on the Daytona 6263 PN Panda Dial. Something about this dial that i really liked. I put my trust in his hands and he worked his magic. He would ask me what I wanted every step of the way and was a huge help. Rolojack thanks for doing what you do. Also for taking the time, effort, skill, and patience. Let me know what you all think.

Hi guys I'm a newbie here I have vast experience in genuine watches & replicas. although I've come across these two beauty's on Trusty Via Andrew. http://www.ttw-138.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_6&products_id=16050 and http://www.ttw-138.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_452&products_id=15989 the 2017 Green dial Daytona and the new 40mm day date. can anyone give me a hint or point me in the right direction as which watch is more likely to feel and also look the most genuine? its a lot to spend on a rep, approx $1,400.00 I've never splashed out over $600 on a rep before, this is new territory for me. all comments and help would be appreciated! thanks all.

I need service of my MBW 1665, it has a 1570 inside and the date will not change. who does service in the USA. Thanks

Hi guys, Whats the best GMT II Black/Blue out there at the moment ? The one closer to the gen one Thanks

Hey guys, so I bought a Rolex submariner rep. Paid $300 of trusty time. Now I when I pull out the dial to adjust the time/date, it doesn't catch anything and I can't change the time! The perpetual movement still works and ticks fine. Wtf happened?!

Does anyone have the newest BP subs to share pics of? Been looking for a few ...

The 16800 I've been thinking about this for quite a while yet and thought I would do a little tutorial on 16800 builds as the one I did on the Bluesy builds. Since there are NO reps of that model, you HAVE to build it to have it. So first things first.. The 16800 Basically it is the model between the 1680 and the 16610 (168000 actually but are we counting this??) It is a pretty unpopular Rolex in collectors eyes so far but I am totally positive that will change drastically over time with the rarity of the Pallettoni dials and the special spider dials that are popping up in those pieces, there most likely is a great potential in those pieces. Improvements compared to the 1680: - Saphire Crystal -> no more acrylic - Rolex Cal 3035 -> no more 1570/5 (-> added QuickSet function and now high beat) - Unidirectional rotating bezel - Waterproof to a depth of 300m -> 200m on the 1680 - New crown - 703 (trip lock) -> 700 on the 1680 - 93150 Bracelet with 593 end links -> 7206 or 9315 on the 1680 with 580 end links Now let's get to the building. Of course you will want a decent case as a base for your build. I also have to say this is probably one of the hardest tasks in repdom. Find a correct case... There are not many to choose... Only ones I know about that are usable are: - 3035 ST case (old and super rare) - Phong 16800 case ($$$) Sure you could use a TC case too but that wouldn't have a shallow rehaut and just be incorrect, also you will have to drill lug holes. It's up to you to decide if you can live with that flaw or not. Imho it's not too much of a biggie but I would still hunt for a correct case. Once you have a case, move on with the sourcing of a crystal, crown and tube. I personally would go gen on all of those. - nonAR 295c sapphire crystal - 703 crown and tube After that, I would go with the decision of the bezel assembly and the bezel ring. Your choices are: - Genuine - Phong - ST - TC (if you go TC case) Bezel insert HAS to be gen imho so there goes that. Now we have almost everything except for movement, bracelet, hands and dial eh? Yeah exactly. Now it is yours to choose if you want to go matte dial (Pallettoni) or gloss dial (with WG surrounds) Special dials would be the Spider dials (also $$$ if proper one) Spider dial: The matte dials are pretty expensive to buy if you can even find them in an acceptable condition. They are really hard to come by. The gloss ones although are out there like sand on the beach, you can find them literally everywhere and also score pretty good deals on them To be periodic correct there are several Marks for the dials.. Matte dials: Mk1: Mk2: Rare dial, can usually be found on watches with serial numbers from 6.1 to 8.5 mil ('84-'85) The hyphen in the wording 'Swiss - T<25' is perfectly centered with the '6 Marker whilst on the Mk1 it was placed more on the right. Also in the depth indication the tail of the letter 'f' almost touches the tip of the letter V in 'SUPERLATIVE'. Mk3: Even rarer dial than mk2 The two hyphens of the '=' in the depth indication are staggered - not aligned to each other Mk4: Now the Mk4 is a special dial since it is a dial that was around at the early serials. It is unique for the font of the 'ft' and the inclination. Gloss dials: Mk1: Mk2: I think the difference between gloss Mk1 and Mk2 are obvious, so I will not get into them now. Bicchierini Dial the Beyeler dials with WG surrounds that came out in '84 and lasted for a year or two. These dials would have the same printed font as the matte dials and were supposedly gloss dials but a lot of them have lost their gloss over time. This is a Beyeler dial- circa 84-85. (taken from alli, thanks I forgot it) If you have found a dial you like, go and buy a hands set, you should use: - genuine - TC LN v2 and age them to match the Patina of your dial. When it comes to the movement, the question is all about your wallet. You can go: - genuine cal. 3035 - ETA Now last but not least, we're having the bracelet.. For that you can choose between those: - genuine 93150 - PT 93150 - anything else aftermarket However I would suggest at least getting a genuine clasp for it. Please also keep the dating of the clasp code in mind so that it mates up with the rest of your build specs. After you have sourced all of those parts, send them out to the watchmaker of your choice and have him build the 16800. Happy building! :sparta::hi: @Sogeha

as the post says need a pair of movement screw to secure it. let me know if you have those handy, i know that wholesaleoutlet has them, but he will not sell to me

Hello fellow members. I've just registered, and I'd like to ask you a question. I know that maybe such questions are common here, but I have a serious dilema. I have 19cm wrist, will submariner look ok on me? Anyway, I wanted to buy V7 Submariner from N. What do you think about it? I've found a video HERE and it looks marvelous. There are some retailers selling them online, but maybe you happen to know trusted retailers? But I've also found site called iSwiss, on which they sell V7 really cheap but it's NOT RECOMMENDED and there are several comments saying N. replicas are bad. What do you think? Kind regards for everyone!

Just picked up this GMT Master ii from Andrew at TT, what a great customer service experience! All questions were answered in less than an hour generally and shipping took about 4 days from shipping date to my house in the US. The Watch is a noob best edition and I must say it's 9.8/10 almost perfect! If you're looking for this Watch don't hesitate buying from Andrew he will take care of you!

Hi, I am looking to purchase the best 5513 and 1675 GMT replica also in the market for a Daytona. Any suggestions please? Anybody used Trusty Time? http://www.ttw-138.com? Regards Martin

What do you guys think about the likeness to a gen on the YM2 stainless?

Today some pictures of my Rolex Daytona 6263 Paul Newman Enjoy them!