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Was bored so I took some shots in the snow from a couple of watches out of my collection. I hope you enjoy them Oh and a wristshot

I'll get us started: $57k 5513" mislabeled in the auction with no serial or movement photo's... PCG case too. Feel free to share more!

Hi all! Took delivery of this a while back...haven't had a chance to type this up. TC was very responsive from the start and after 7 weeks of anxious waiting, it finally got delivered to my office. I was like a kid on Christmas day! I requested for the insert to be left unmounted as I was planning on sourcing a gen insert. The TC 16610 insert came packaged separately and looks like quite an improvement from the previous version. Although side-by-side with a gen, there's some scope for improvement with the pearl. Not criticising TC's efforts whatsoever as I can see why it's such a challenge as the gen is truly remarkable. TC is a true artist and gentleman in every sense. I'd been studying these at second hand watch shops throughout London for months prior to receiving the watch and was very impressed by it. A common comment that's made about the TC bracelet is that the first link is stamped with 93250, but in my "research", I was surprised that I encountered quite a few re-conditioned 16610s did not have it. Apparently Rolex stopped doing it in later versions and in later phases of production. Out of the box, the bracelet was a little stiff compared to the gens, but as TC has pointed out in his blog, this is a CNY350 vs a USD1000 gen. A very resourceful member posted about a bracelet "spa" treatment, which involves soaking the bracelet overnight in Johnson's baby oil, which worked like a charm. Feels fantastic now. I must admit, the middle section of the SEL appears to be raised higher than the gens I've seen, so I'm a bit unsure about that. TC reckons that the sample used as datum had such raised middle sections, but I am yet to encounter one. Has anyone out there? The crown stamp on the buckle is not quite as clearly defined as a gen, but is far better than any other rep I've encountered. The bezel click is fairly close to a gen too, although is not quite as smooth. The KH dial is a work of art and is what carries this tightly executed package. The lacquered sheen on the dial, the silver surrounding the dials, the print on the dial is executed to an incredibly high standard and is what sets the TC v6 in a different league from the others. The lume is perfectly applied and glows in the same colour and intensity as the gen insert! That cannot be easy to do! The latest DWO is also fantastic, being slightly raised, and with a slight gloss, it really does "scream gen"! The crown is excellent too, as well the CGs. Difficult to distinguish from a gen, even when placed side by side due to the variances between the gen production series'. I have felt compelled to wear it every day since I received it and can't stop looking at it. It's like wearing a piece of art on my wrist. Oh and lastly, it keeps great time too

Hi Guys! Super excited. Bought this replica Rolex Deep Sea. It's a beautiful thing. Got it yesterday. Apologies for the picture quality - in need I can upload better quality pictures. The movement works fine. However with the caseback on the watch lasts for about an hour then stops. I left the case back off last night and when I woke up the watch was still ticking. Put the caseback on, hand wound it about 15 to 20 times and sure enough stopped and hour later. Took the caseback off again and it's been running no problem the whole day. I can only assume that the caseback is somehow interfering with the movement. Any ideas? As an aside can the buffs here tell me what movement this is? Thanks for your help Attached Images

We make all of our products using traditional leather-working techniques to give you something that will last a lifetime. Each product is bench-made by a professional artisan who cares for it at every step of the production process. Audermars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore custom made strap

High Everyone, I'm glad I found this forum, I've already learned a lot by reading your posts. I'm looking at buying a Rolex Milgauss from Andrew at Trusty. I found him through reading posts on here btw. Anyhow, I'm looking for advice on which movement to select. There are three options. An 2813 Asian movement for $168, an 2836 Asian movement upgraded to look like Rolex movement for 258, and a 2836 Swiss ETA movement where, according to Andrew, the rotor and bridge are replaced with asian parts to look like Rolex parts and it costs $348. I really don't care about what the watch looks like inside, I'm concerned with reliability and being able to have it serviced. Does anyone here bought any of these milgauss models and have any thoughts? Any recommendations on the movemenet? Thanks in advance for your help everyone! -Chad

I've been getting quite a few emails about building a 6542, and I don't think I'm anywhere near an expert on these builds, but there's not a whole lot out there regarding one of these builds, so I figured I'd write up a little tutorial based on info I've scrounged up. Hope it helps! First things first, the case. To start with, The PT 6542 complete watch is not a good base. Nothing on it is gen-spec, or could be made gen-spec. Like I say, I'd go with the 1655 case and grind it down. It's a bigger case, so you could get really damn close by just grinding it down - there's no problems like the stubby CG's on the 5513s. Just do a lot of checking on VRF - find a case you like and make it look exactly like that one. I don't remember what case I used. It was a Silix case, but one of the first I ever bought. From the email I dug up (in 2011), it was a ROL170. I don't know if he has that model anymore, or if you could figure it out from the pictures. I have the pics, and the watch started out as a 6538 (kind of) - it was really, really wrong, and had things like a small crown, wrong size springbar holes, wrong bezel, and so on. My personal recommendation would be not to go with a Silix at all, if you intend on using JoeyB's bezel and insert. They're too nice for a POS Silix rep (even though that's what a few people here swear by). The case is not gen-spec in any way at all. The crystal is glued inside, not outside a lip like gen, the bezel probably won't swap over without heavy modifications, and so on. My recommendation would be actually using a 1655 rep from The Cartel. What I've seen is grinding off the crownguards, thinning the case just a bit, thinning the caseback, drilling the lugs, and retapping for a gen small crown. The reason for this is because the 1655 rep will accept a gen 116 with no trouble, and uses gen bezel construction, so the bezel should swap over with no problem. I would use a gen 116 if you can get one (or a 115, whichever it is - don't remember the exact number) because it really does sparkle and look much, much better than any aftermarket. Next, the dial. I used an Ingod 6542 dial which had the lip ground off. To my eyes, it is closest to gen. However, the lume is awful. My dial arrived with all of the lume basically rubbed off. I would have it relumed by the modder of your choice (either glow or non-glow) and you should be as good as you can get. The dial will need to be glued onto a sort of "spacer" so that it can be attached to the movement. I think it was ground down (the lip) and JB welded onto a flat disc that functioned like a dial spacer. Not sure though. The InGod dial I used was messed with by PB and JMB. Not sure what they did, but I know they both hate me for it! haha Next, the hands. I like Clarks hand, as they look a little more gen (for the old style) than anything I can find. There are flaws (like the minute hand being too short) and the tip on the hour hand is not quite the right shape, as well as the "rectangle" part of the hour hand being too short. If you look at gen pictures you'll see that the hand is a little longer than newer styles - check it out and you'll see what I mean. TBH, I don't remember where I got the small GMT hand. I think I got it from Raffles-Time, but I'm not sure. Next, the movement. I started out using the DG 2804 (or the 2813, whichever is the GMT version) and hated every minute of it. It's not as easy to swap as some people make it sound, and personally I like getting stuff working for a long while, not doing a constant tear down and repair all the time. For that reason, I used the 2836GMT. I know people can bash that movement, but if it's serviced, it shouldn't be a problem. The DWO should be a roulette, which I think someone on RWG is selling for like 20 Euros. Expensive, but worth it. Mine is OK for now, but it really does irk me and I'll probably upgrade it at some point... One of those things, you know. Finally, the bracelet. I would use either a folded 6210 Jubilee or a rivet 6636/7206 (stretch or no stretch). Those would be period correct (the first being custom at Rolex AD and the other being the PanAm standard issue). My recommendation would be to check out some on real auction sites or VRF and find one you like, and mod it to look like that. I think with some case reshaping, a good movement, proper relumed hands and dial, a good roulette wheel DWO and the Joey B bezel and insert, plus a killer bracelet you'd have a top notch 6542. Now go, and make some really awesome 6542s!

Hi everyone, I wanted to know what the model would be on this particular rolex and how much it goes for? Thanks in advance

I always recommend members to go get a gen 16610 insert for a reason, it is simply just beautiful! Beautiful how? Our eyes and our brains conceive its beauty but we can not always translate that beauty into plain English. My interpretation of that beauty is a flat and matte insert plus a well polished pearl holder plus a shiny corundum pearl. In my quest for the perfect Submariner 16610, the insert along with its pearl has always been a big challenge. This very specific part is actually an assembly of the aluminum insert, the corundum pearl, and the pearl holder. There is luminescent applied carefully and evenly within the pearl holder so the pearl could "glow in the dark". When I started the insert project in 2012, I thought the pearl holder is made of stainless steel. So I took the liberty being a partner of a local metal part manufacturer and made a batch of the pearl holder. Those stainless steel pearl holders were on every Caddell vintage insert I shipped out along with TC Sub V6 as freebies. This April, a member who bought a TC Sub V6 wrote me saying he has a theory: the gen pearl holder may be made from the same material as the KH 16610 dial indices. So I asked my friend to make me some samples to see if this theory is true. I had to use my microscope since this is late in the night and I couldn't capture anything clearly with my Canon. This is the stainless steel pearl holder on Caddell vintage insert. This is the new pearl holder I just received. How do you like it, gentlemen? TC 10/10/14

Fresh from hell! Pls contact Master Satan himself for more questions

...just yikes http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Black-Blue-Deepsea-Dial-Rolex-Sea-Dweller-/231340764188?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0 *Gratuatious use of emoticons welcome

The engravings are some of the better ones I've seen. Font is close and it's done with a pantograph machine (as opposed to rotary). What do you guys think? http://www.ebay.com/sch/rrtvrn/m.html?item=271611690288&hash=item3f3d517d30&pt=Wristwatches&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562&_vilcat=31387

Hey guys, has anyone bought the "new" blue dialed YM in Angus' Site? The blue dial really got me and I was wondering if you have some pictures.. Looks pretty good imho. Price tag is alright but I'd like to see some pictures in the sunlight for example I'd appreciate it.

Hi all, So I did my research and opted to dive in and grab myself a 2014 Noob DSSD. I opted for a well known TD, I'm sure you'll know who from the pics. But I'm not too keen on the quality of the strap/bracelet. I guess my question is, am I being too picky here? Or should I reject? what do others DSSDs look like in these areas?. Oh and the face and body look great so just the strap/bracelet that concerns me. The TD has said this is the last one and I can have a refund if I'd like so.....

Hello folks! Thought it might be interesting. This is taken in 1963 in Kremlin, Moscow. Fidel Castro is meeting Nikita Khrushchev. Fidel is wearing Rolex...two of them, on the same wrist!

Hey guys, I'm a new member and I basically signed up on this forum just to ask you guys questions about fake rolex websites. I want a fake rolex, however I keep finding really fishy looking websites that seem too good to be true. I found this one based in Australia (Which would be extremely convenient for me because I live in New Zealand) and they seem legitimate, I've made an account and everything I'm very close to buying one but I feel like it could very well be a scam. The name of the website is "www)mywatchesonline)com)au". I am getting so frustrated at this point because I really want a watch but I just don't want to lose my money. If this website does turn out to be a scam, I would be so appreciative if you guys could tell me a real website for replicas. -Jimbo

About this time last year, TC Sub club faced a huge challenge. I was running out of usable TC 16610 and TC 16610LV dials. The dial supplier, due to China's crack down on counterfeits, stopped the rep dial production. The only thing I could do back then was to build each TC 16610 Sub and TC 16610LV Sub from the pile of dials which were taken out from QC issues. I had to first choose a dial with no scratch on the surface and then piece by piece re do the indices to the dial. During that time I wrote a short intro for TC Sub LV Type 3 but skipped the review on the TC Sub V5. I spent most of my time on piecing together the dials. Hence, many new members who did not follow my blog from the beginning were probably confused. If you do not know the story, please read Bumps in the road - 16610 dial maker and the following TC Sub LV Type 3. OK, let begin. A Submariner 16610 watch consists of 7 major parts or part assemblies. They are "watch case set", "bezel insert", "dial", "hands set", "crystal", "bracelet", and a power engine, the "movement"; To make a proper Submariner 16610 rep watch, we have to add on 2 more important parts. They are "date wheel overlay a.k.a DWO" and "movement holder". Watch Case Set TC Sub V6 is based on the tried and true TC Sub Watch Case Set. This is actually the second case set I picked up. It's a keeper because it has all the aesthetically gen features and constructions. That is to say, crown height at gen position, gen construction bezel assembly that houses gen insert without modding or sanding. The mid case could also house any other gen bezel assembly, gen case back, or even gen dial and movement. I wrote a blog entry to review this watch case set shortly after I picked up this hobby. If you're interested, please take a look at TC Sub Housing Gen 3135 & Gen Parts. Bezel Insert Following the Caddell Vintage Insert. It took me over an year to develop this bezel insert. If you're interested, I documented the first received batch of sapphire crystal pearl in TC Gen Spec Bezel Insert & Pearl - Project Update. I then found Rolex's secret in luming the sapphire crystal pearl in TC's Pursuit of the Perfect Sub - Progress Update. Caddell Vintage Insert is not a 1:1 to gen bezel insert. It has a curved or rounded look surface while gen is flat. However, when installed to the TC Sub V6, it provides some what of a vintage effect like those of Vintage Omega Seamaster or Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Therefore, I throw in a Caddell Vintage Insert free of charge for each TC Sub V6 members ordered. Dial If it is not the Kensington High 16610 dial, I would not give this timepiece its designation: TC Submariner Version 6. The dial and indices looked very simple; however, I learned that the KH 16610 dial is in fact extremely complicated and troublesome to manufacture. It really tested the producer's craftsmanship and capabilities. I never knew such complicated production process were originated in the old kingdom then brought to Switzerland by Rolex. Nowadays, this progress of dial making is used only by Rolex. In my opinion, most other Swiss watch power houses cheapped out on the indices if an indices dial is used at all. Ever since the possession of these KH 16610 dial, I became addicted to these dials. I don't think I could ever go back to the old TC 16610 dials anymore. The problem is, supply of KH 16610 dial is limited and slow. The lume job was done magnificently! Hands Set The next thing I would like to talk about is, TC 16610 Hands Set V2. I have been putting the new TC 16610 Hands Set V2 on members' TC Sub V6 for a while. A forum member who's also active on gen watch forums introduced me the V2 hands set maker early this year. He bought a TC Sub V5 with KH 16610 dial and told me everything on the TC Sub is great but something is a bit off. That was the hands. Gen Rolex Submariner's hands set are a tad thicker in comparison to the old TC 16610 hands and provides more of visual 3D effect. V2 hands set is improved upon by this gen feature. The effect of the hands set along with the craftsmanship on the KH 16610's indices reaches true harmony when light shines on the dial creating the ambiance of perfection. That's something only the best craftsman in Europe can produce. That's also something we can only see in genuine Rolex watches. Gentleman, may I present TC 16610 Hands Set V2. Bracelet In my pursuit of the perfect Submariner, a good, tight, and gapless solid end link is as important as a good, clean, shiny dial. The Chinese TC 93250 V3 bracelet maker had done a great job eliminating the ugly gap whenever matching a bracelet to a TC or other rep sub mid case. The Thai TC 93250 V4 bracelet maker pushed that bar higher in making the very best coronet stamp on the clasp. However, members have reported the V4 bracelet art not as good in detail finishings. Besides, the first link of the V4 bracelet does not fold all the way in as gen does. So here it is, the TC 93250 V5 bracelet. I documented the details in TC 93250 V5 Review. Since the time I received KH 16610 dials, I felt the drive to push the bar for quality a step forward. I started to use a caliper to measure mid case lugs distance before matching bracelets. Then I found out TC Sub mid cases lugs distances have variances, and the variances may be dramatically big. So I placed an order of 2 different SEL specs from the bracelet maker this time to solve the problem once for all. The specs are 20.10 (+/- 0.02) mm and 20.15 (+/- 0.02) mm. Here's the detailed explanation: $59 TC 93250 V5. Movement The powertrain inside TC Sub V6 is TC 2824. Right after I picked up this hobby, I knew I had to find an alternative movement source other than ETA. I've tried Sellita and the Chinese but those didn't pan out. I documented the journey in TC 2824 - An ETA 2824 Super Clone Part I. Luckily I met TC 2824 maker at EPHJ, an fair that my line of trade would pay visit every year. I have only two requirements to the movement I should use. One being to perform on par with ETA standard grade ebauche. Two, it has to have H4 cannon pinion. Why it has to have H4 cannon pinion? Because an H2 would make the hands stack sitting too close to the dial when fully assembled. That is UGLY! TC 2824 maker is the only movement maker I reached out who's capable and willing to make me H4 cannon pinion 2824 movement. I dissected a TC 2824 and an ETA 2824, and made a side by side review in TC 2824 - An ETA 2824 Super Clone Part II. Date Wheel Overlay The Date Wheel Overlay is a thin stainless steel overlay with gen or gen like font dates printed on it. It has to be manually attached or glued to the 2824 movement's original date wheel in order to display dates in the right position of a gen Rolex 3135 movement in a rep watch. I hated doing so in the beginning because it is damn difficult to get it right. But there is no other way around if a 2824 movement is to be used in building the rep. I learned to appreciate doing it a little while later because it requires me to fully focus with no fuzz in mind in order to execute the task correctly. I realized in doing so, it really provided me a peace of mind. This is exactly the reason I picked up this hobby after an ugly divorce. I needed peace in mind. DWO in TC Sub V6 is the 4th version I cooked up along the journey. The first and second version were supplied by the TC Sub Watch Case Set maker, in plain English, the original rep 16610 maker. TC DWO V1 and TC DWO V2 does not transcript gen Rolex date font 100%. Thus I took a detour to Japan during a business trip to Asia and made TC DWO V3. Although TC DWO V3 is a direct transcript of gen 3135 date wheel, font and position. It often sits left justified in the dial's date window when fully assembled. To correct this issue, I made another detour to Japan and made TC DWO V4. TC DWO V4 has the correct white base color. The font is genuine Rolex. The date print is raised in high gloss. And the best thing is, it sit spot on the center in the dial's date window. That's about as detailed and thorough review covering all the latest parts or part assemblies of a TC Sub V6 can get for now. Some more V6 shots. Thanks for reading. TC 8/24/14

It took me a while to complete it, but it is now done !!!! My pointed crown guard Sub with 3,6,9 gilt dial !!!! Specs : Bezel & Insert sourced in Thailand Cartel Polex mid case slimmed from the top to lower the bezel sitting and have the crown appear higher. Welded on the crown side to create enough metal to carve an accurate crown guard. Then, totally reshaped all around. DW caseback Cartel bracelet links and end links Gen deployment Cartel PT 702 crown modified to 700 Clarks crystal Dial & Hands from Yuki Now to the pics :

OK, so I was one of those that couldn't resist buying a daytona knowing that it would most likely be a time bomb. I know that the movement they use is not ideal due to the running seconds at 6, and this will always be an issue until a different movement is used. Here is what I am seeing; I've worn the watch on and off for the last couple of years. Lately the watch will run for a minute, and then it will consistently stop when the second hand reaches the 10 second mark, and won't move unless I shake the watch a bit to get things going again. So my question is this - is this pretty much the expected symptom of a daytona that is on its way to the trash bin, or is this possibly a different issue that could be fixed in some way? I'm not sure what the exact symptoms are of a dead daytona versus an issue that may affect the watch and can possibly be fixed. If it turns out it's yet another dead daytona, are there any other options at this point besides throwing it away? Looking forward to your responses. WR

Hi Everyone, Well I have finally purchased an Iced Out Rolex that can be worn right-out-of-the-box instead of having one custom-made for me from a well known Jeweler. I live in Vegas so almost everything has to be loud (watches, clothes, jewelry, cars, etc.). I want to see what everyone thinks about my new addition to my ever growing watch collection. I know some of you won't like it but try to keep the low ball comments out. Ok. Also, I thought i post pics of my watch vs. genuine for comparison. I just posted the MB just for fun!

Posting this because its funny as hell Saw it on a watch blog today The Greatest Rolex Story You'll Ever Hear Dr. Jim Norman, driver in the Napleton Racing #16 Porsche Cayman team that just won class GX of the 2013 Rolex 24, has the funniest Rolex story you'll ever hear! In his own words -- FUNNY STORY! ... Today I take my new Rolex to the jeweler right down the street from my house in Tampa to get a link taken out so it fits me better (for those of you who don't know, the winning drivers of the Rolex 24 Hours of Daytona are presented with a new Rolex timepiece in Victory Lane). The jeweler re-sizes it for me and charges me $8. I say "Wow, 8 bucks, that's not very much". The manager lady says, "well, if it were a REAL Rolex we would charge you more!". I chuckle and say "it IS a real Rolex". She says, "Nope it is not...We know Rolex watches and this is definitely a fake." My retort, "well, I guess you don't know these as well as you think!". Hearing this, the Jeweler comes out from behind his little glass window from where he is working on a frail, blue-haired lady's broach while wearing some very dorky-looking magnifying glasses and says, "I'll bet you bought that watch in New York". He puts both hands in his back pockets and sticks out his skinny "bird" chest in an attempt to be strong and assertive. "Nope" I say, "I haven't been to NYC in some time". He quickly replies, "I'll bet you $1000 you didn't buy that from a real Rolex dealer". I say, I won't take that bet, because you are right, I didn't buy this from a Rolex dealer". "AH HA!" he exclaims, "it IS a fake!! Where did you get it??" "I got it in Daytona this past Sunday". "HA! I am right!" he shouts, almost loud enough to break some of the crystal elephants assembled as a group on one of the overhead glass shelves. "I know all the Rolex dealers in Daytona, and none of them is open on Sundays!" He is quite pleased with himself and turns to strut back to his window-enclosed, nick-knack cluttered cubby. "Maybe I didn't get it from a dealer" I state smugly. He turns and says, "well then tell me, who DID you get this FAKE Rolex from?" "Well, I stated calmly and coolly, I was presented this beautiful timepiece from the President and CEO of Rolex Watches while standing on the podium at the Rolex 24 Hours of Daytona". "OH, Sure!" he says, "and I'm Santa Claus!!". And back into his cubby he went, oblivious to the REAL world around him. He doesn't get it... The world is passing him by and he isn't even aware that it is happening. You gotta love life and embrace life... even if it means you have to wear a fake Rolex.

Hello. I'm about to offer this watch for sale, but I need to know as much info as I can on this watch. What I know is that the bezel and bezel insert are aftermarket and it is bigger than the original as the "big crown" that is supposed to be on this watch doesn't fit. I purchased the 6538 big crown on ebay but when we had our watchmaker try to install it, it didn't fit. I'm thinking the dial is refinished as well. The serial is worn down and not readable, but the model number is readable. Here are some photos if anyone else knows anything more about this watch and what you think it could sell for, I would appreciate it very much. Thanks in advance. Carolyn

I am wanting to get a decent quality 50th anniversary Submariner and need help and opinions from some of you guys. I love replica's but I am no where near an expert. I heard That King Watch was a trusted seller and I have one that I picked. I just want to see if it is something worth purchasing. Here are the Specs It has Swiss ETA 2836-2 Black 268 Movement SS Oyster Bracelet with Diver extensions 40mm x 12.5mm thick Material One piece forged 316 Stainless Steel Sapphire Crystal Close 6 and 9 I wish i could post a link, but i can't The price is $245 and I am willing to pay more for a better replica, up to $350. Let me know if this is one I should get or if anyone has better suggestions?? Thanks!!

Hi guys! I've been doing a lot of thinking about this lately, and these are my top 5 watches of all time. What are yours? 1: Richard Mille RM055 2: Ulysse Nardin Royal Blue Tourbillon 3: Hublot LaFerrari Tourbillon 4: Romain Jerome Moon Orbital Tourbillon 5: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore "Safari" (PS: If somebody out there has a rep of this they'd be willing to part with, let me know!)

Hey guys, I went to a Jewelry store today to try on watches, and some worker told me to check out ttw888.com for a cheap submariner. Can anyone give me advice or send me good replicas? Thanks