mymanmatt

You can do that, but it will require a lot of modifying. I think one of the problems you will run into, is the buckles fold differently. The short end of the old style will have to go on the long end of the new style, and vice versa. I can't imagine why you would want to do that, but it is your watch and you can do whatever you want to. Good luck!!

Good morning. I just want to give you a quick comparison of kelo to timegraph. With kelo you can only set the speed. It also seems to have an error of 5-10 seconds + or - per day. If you are using kelo, be sure and move only the lever with the brass top. DO NOT MOVER THE ONE WITH THE SILVER TOP. THAT IS THE BEAT LEVER!!!!! With timegraph you not only can adjust the speed but the beat error and actually change the amplitude. Adjusting a watch on timegrapher is quite complicated and requires a lot of patience. With a timegrapher you can move the lever with the silver top, but be very careful, because it is very very sensitive. The combinations of adjustments on a movement are almost endless. When regulating a movement make ONE, AND ONLY ONE ADJUSTMENT AT A TIME. If you change positions on the timegraph, in other words move from dial down to the side position, give it at least 1-2 minutes to stabilize. The only way to know how to adjust a movement is on the job training. I suggest you start with an old movement to see what changes your input does. It will take a while to learn what happens when you move something. It can take a long time, so be patient, you'll get it.

Towards the end of the video you see him install the stop lever. It's a brass L shaped piece. The long side stops the balance when you pull the stem out. The short side sits in the clutch, or sliding pinion. The yoke sits on top of the clutch, the stop lever sits in the side of the clutch.

Yes, the way you are removing the stem is correct. Sometimes, just the slightest amount of of to much pressure will push the set lever out of the yoke corrector. Then when you push the stem in, it will let the yoke slip out of the clutch.

The usual problem is the YOKE. When the set lever is pushed up to far, it lets the YOKE slip out of the CLUTCH and then nothing works. If you've never been in the keyless before, it will seem complicated, but it's not. Be sure and perform these steps with the stem in the watch. Here we go step by step by step. 1 the movement is facing you and that means the stem is on your right. 2 you see the silver plate over the keyless works and it has 1 screw holding it at the top. remove the screw. The plate will come off. Here is what you will see. A very small gear next to the larger brass gear. The piece that tiny gear sits on is called the YOKE CORRECTOR. It moves up and down when you pull or push the stem. Next to that tiny gear you will see a thin long metal piece attached to a dowel pin at the top. That is the YOKE. Beneath the YOKE is another tiny gear with a slot in it, laying in a groove, that is the CLUTCH. It also moves in and out with the stem. To the right you will see what's called the SET LEVER. It's the largest single piece of the keyless. When you push the small pin on the back side of the movement to release the stem, that's is the piece your are pushing. Are you still with me? 3 remove the YOKE from the dowel pin. It has to come straight up. 4 reinstall the YOKE into the small slot of the CLUTCH and put the YOKE back over the dowel pin. 5 be sure to check that the SET LEVER is in the YOKE CORRECTOR. It will sit flush on top of the YOKE CORRECTOR when it's in place. 6 when you feel certain everything is in place, reinstall the large silver plate that you removed to access the keyless. 7 start the screw but do not tighten it yet. At the bottom of that piece you will see some notches. On the SET LEVER you will see a pin. Push the notches to the side of that pin. It will have a small amount of tension. 8 at the top by the screw, to the right you will see a thin piece of metal. Below it you will see the top of the YOKE. Push that piece of metal to the right so it pops to side of the YOKE. 9 Tighten the screw. You have now repaired your keyless works. I hope I haven't made this to difficult to understand. Good luck to you.

Sorry no pics. So the other day I had serviced an asian 2836-2. The numbers were great. speed +5 sec, amplitude 280, beat error 0.0. I installed the rotor assy. To my surprise amplitude dropped to 240. After scratching my head for a bit, i found it. 2 screws hold the rotor assy on the baseplate. One is by the balance bridge. To my surprise the bridge on the rotor assy overlapped the balance bridge, slightly. When I tightened the screw on the rotor bridge, it actually put the slightest amount of pressure on the balance bridge. Never saw it before. I cut the rotor bridge back slightly so it cleared the balance bridge. Installed it, and amplitude back to 280. I cked a couple of other asian rotor assy, same thing. That may slowly develop into a bigger problem and may eventually stop the movement. Just thought I would share.

The answer to your question is very simple. Whatever number of watches you have is enough. However, if you see a watch you don't have, and you want it, then you don't have enough. You need one more!

Spiedel, if I spelled it right, made the "twist o flex" bracelet a long time ago. They also made some of the early oyster bracelets for Rolex. Yes they did!!

I love looking at this section. A lot of the same old, but also some watches I never knew existed.

I agree. 3 months is to long. The buyer has to confirm that the watch is what was described in a reasonable amount of time. That would be in the first week. After three months, he owns it, regardless.

One of the responsibilities of being a senior member, is to help the newbies. Sometimes it's hard to suggest to them to look it up in manner that sounds polite. We were all newbies at one time. But, there is no substitute for manners, be it a long time member, or a newbie. "can't we all, just get along?" lol Jack Nicholison in war of the worlds, I think.

I was trying to renew my $10 a month membership, and thought 6 months was $55, turns out it was wanting to charge me $55 a month. Now it won't let me back that out. It shows a bill pending. Hope you can help me sort that out. Thanks, Matt

The 2124 and 3135 have the same stem height. If your case is for a 2824, the 3135 stem height will be the same. I agree with tomhorn.

I know tc uses a 2824 in his cases, at least in the ones I've seen. That is the same stem height as the 3135. However, he makes a movement ring to hold it and you can't use that on the 3135. I'm not sure if the 3135 will fit without a new ring being made. Just have to try it. If it has a 2824 in it, the stem height should be ok. By the way, the movement rings tc makes, are professionally made. Very nice

Not rhodium. But i've seen one and it is pretty.

The timegraph is primarily to adjust the operation of the balance assy. While a problem elsewhere, such as the drive train, can affect it, it's main job is to adjust the balance so it operates equally in both directions. The amplitude is the distance the balance wheel travels to the right and the left. For example if amplitude is 250 degrees, that will be 125 degrees to the right and 125 degrees to the left from center If the beat error is 0.0. The speed is obvious. If the hairspring is dirty, or has a micro piece of lint it will appear like in your picture. Also if the movement is not secure it will allow the machine to pick up the vibrations. Your pic shows the hairspring vibrating as it turns. It may be shuddering when it stops also. This is what I would do. Remove the balance assy. Make sure the hairspring is secure in the levers. Look for any lint or dirt. Dip the balance assy, blow it dry gently with your blue bulb. Reinstall the assy, be sure the screw in the bidge is tight and ck it again. Good luck

While ssteel is one of the best, don't be surprised if something else goes wrong in the future. That movement is not known for it's longevity.

Is the balance bridge tight? Is your hairspring clean? Is it mounted firmly in your machine. If you adjust your rate, it may lower your beat error. You should probably clean the hairspring and ck it again. Good luck

I wouldn't think he needed to remove the movement. That screw was probably the one in the winding bridge. It will affect just about everything to do with the winding, including the self wind.

ssteel is right, no screw on the rotor. Take the back off and have a look. You may see the problem. Good luck I assume you have fully wound it

I've noticed on at least one, the gear that turns the date wheel, on the top, is to small and won't catch the teeth on the calendar wheel

That looks good. Are you maybe being a little too picky? I like that dial. A lot of gens have that dial, don't worry about it. In the picture it looks aligned to me. Nice watch!

I've used a lot of gen date wheels on a yuki under a gen dial. Never had any problems. Several gen parts will fit the yuki I don't recall the teeth being painted on the gen date wheel. Maybe some are. The dial is not gen for sure

I may have a bracelet

That's the way. Be sure it's pulled out all the way first. Be sure you're pushing the correct button.