sssurfer

Thank you for your answer

Ma di nulla. Ciao, e in bocca al lupo per la tua ricerca!

You are welcome. Hi, and best wishes on your hunt!

I like it very much!

And great work on the strap!

As I see that stitching threads are not damaged, I suppose you used chemical methods (perhaps bleach), did you?

EDIT: apologies, I see you answered my question while I was typing it...

EDIT 2: I've never been able to succesfully bleach a black strap, only brown straps.

Let me look for a better case... any suggestion?

For my TTK's '027/028' I used the case from exclusive_discount_uk on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.it/CASE-44MM-FOR-PAM111-PA...1QQcmdZViewItem

(probably best bang for the price -- and btw, the seller is Homer from TRC, a standup guy).

It just needed a little trimming (filing) on the dial to make it fit into that case.

...But if you want a 027 with no hassle, silixprime has it @ 80$!!!:

http://www.silix-prime.com/product.asp?id=1486

hey, how about your PAM 028?

you got it from Precious Time?

I got it from Paul about 9 months ago. At that time it was about 150$ less than Josh, but today prices reversed and Josh is less expensive on that watch.

Also Andrew has it, but WARNING: it seems that Andrew has swapped cases and dials (hobnail dial in SS case, flat dial in PVD case like TTK's).

As far as I know, PT does not provide it.

Anyone have advice on how to find the type of company to do the replating? Am I looking for an actual jeweler or?

For USA, I read that Artisanplating (http://www.artisanplating.com/) makes good jobs.

sssurfer - here in my town in Austria we got two companies that do replating with various metals. Pd, Au, Ag Pt,... dunno if they do rose gold... if you want I can ask.

Really thanks, austria! Should I not be able to find anyone in Rome I'll allow myself to bother you again on it.

Wow, thanks for the lessons speedy! Much appreciated, I'll make a wise use of them.

And congrats on your work(s)!

First of all: thanks, TTK! It's a honour to get help from you.

The rubber(s) did not work. So I thoroughfully examined the area with a 10x loupe and I discovered two things:

1 - Contrarily from what I previously said, the spot seems not lying exactly at the same level of the surrounding surface, but it rather seems at a little lower level.

2 - The spot is surrounded by other micro-spots (undistinguishable at naked eye) with exactly the same look of the larger one.

This makes me think that it might be a problem of plate gone away (possibly not properly sticking from the start), or - even more likely - defective from manufacturing.

So, in the end, I think that my best option is to have it re-plated.

I now just have to decide whether to try it in a DIY way, or to ask a jeweler. Decisions, decisions...

Thanks all for your help folks, I think I am nearer to the solution now.

@fellfell: the only dealer selling a '147' is Joshua. But be warned: the '147' is not an accurate rep. If you are looking for a rose gold Radiomir you will also find plenty of reps of other models around.

You may have a look at my pics in the gallery.

Bet it copper .... i do have a thought on how to get rid of the stain ...

bit of a risk though .... so be careful ...

there is liquid out there to remove oxidation from silverware.

Not the old rub puddy Mom used, but a liquid - Tarnex is a brand name in the USA.

Gold doesn't oxidize - copper will - this stuff will "de oxidize" silver metal.

It has been years since chemisrty - and I don't know whats in it - only its function ...

But who knows what is in your plating? - i would be REALLY careful and try a q-tip on only a VERY small area.

Thanks, kritz!

So it seems we all are heading to some professional product able to reduce oxide.

Any EU-located members know of a Tarnex-similar product available in EU?

Is there anyone supply this dial?

Mine is from TTK and it is a plain black dial

I'm gotta upgrade my PAM28A!!!!!!!

Sorry that using sssurfer's photo

No problem, I get it as a compliment.

I posted my answer to your question here.

Hello, u all PAM 27/ 28 experts!

I have laso got one PR PAM from TTK, but mine is a so-called "28A", - a PVD coating case with a plain black dial (not hobnail one).

Can I find the hobnail dial anywhere in the board?

Thanks@

Ed

I am afraid no one is offering a hobnail dial for 028A as a spare part -- I never saw one, at least.

It is quite a complicate dial to produce, and quite expensive I suppose, so one can find it only on expensive reps powered with equally expensive movements (2892A2).

That watch from TTK (a good watch even if not accurate in the dial) is much easier to make it closer to a 027 (as I did) than a 028.

Sorry.

I was writing while you posted, austria!

Great minds think alike...

Some additional thoughts:

it came to my mind that green is color of oxidated copper, and copper is a main component for rose gold plating.

Maybe that spot is an area where copper got oxidated somehow?

In such a case, might a reducent compound (like those used to remove stain spots from clothes) be useful? Or would it likely damage the plating even more?

To my horror I just discovered that there is a sort-of-greenish spot on the rose gold plating of a side of my beloved 147.

Here is a pic. Sorry about the bad quality, I was unable to avoid reflections of the photocamera so the spot does not show very well:

The spot is completely flat, same surface as the rest of the plating -- and it naturally does not get modified by cleaning.

I am unable to tell if it was already there when I received the watch. I suppose not, as I looked at the watch from every angle, but can't be sure about it. Anyway, I would prefer not to ask the dealer: should he even offer a replacement, I don't like the idea to have the watch pass the customs two more times again.

Is there any member, especially those skilled in electroplating, who can suggest the best way for me to get rid of that spot? Have I to plate the watch again? If so, I suppose that plating pens are ok for such a small work, are they?

Or any other suggestions?

Really thanks,

sss

I think you might be closer than you think..... I was told that the A series 028 did not have AR coating.

Wow, thanks for the info!

Uhm, I wonder whether I'd better heading to the closeness with gen, or easiness of use and readability... also superluminova is not supposed to be on a 028A, is it?

you may want to try an oxblood from Europelli, I think that would go beautifully!!

Thanks for the lead! I'll check.

@all: thanks for your kind words and appreciations!

To those interested in mods like real PVD, new cyclops, crown, relume, etc., I posted some pics of the results on my 028 in the picture gallery, here.

Here are some pics of my 028 project (Warren, it seems that I have been faster than you in the end! ):

PVD --> done (by Palpatine)

Relume --> done (by Finepics)

Crown --> temporary (Lello's crown -- to be replaced with a Palp one as soon as they will be available in PVD)

Cyclops --> done (by The Watchmen)

Loose lever fix --> done (by myself)

Adequate strap --> done (by Taikonaut) -- but open to suggestions (see below)

New datewheel --> to do (by Finepics hopely)

AR coating --> to do (by Finepics hopely)

For the strap I wanted something different from the brown straps usually matched with PVD.

After some search I found something I really liked. I may assure you that under the sunlight it is a beauty, so rich in gray reflections.

Let's begin with three portraits:

Then a longer, vertical portrait to show the strap a little more:

The inevitable wrist shot:

And another wrist shot to display more of the strap again:

And now, another possible choice for the strap (so far, I am heading towards the first one, but which do you prefer?):

Last but not least, a close up to show the new cyclops (I can read the date, finally!).

Ok, maybe it is not perfect yet, but I am confident that it will even furtherly improve with a new datewheel font. Currently the font is so large that when the date is made of two large numbers - as in 25 - the numbers touch the sides of the date window. This was a minor flaw with the original poor magnification, but now that magnification is adequate it became perceptible.

I used acrylic paint to tint the lume. Since it is water based, I could thin it out as little or as much as I needed too and not have it set up while I was getting the color correct! I also found that for tinting purposes, the CHEAP (apple barrel brand) paint works the best for tinting (imho) with the FasKolor glow paint for vintage lume as it leaves a tiny amount of shading and non-uniform coloring.

Thanks for the reply, speedy.

Just two more questions, if you like:

Does not acrylic reduce the glowing of glow paint?

Did you select FasKolor glow paint after other experiences? I am asking this as I am going to try GlowPaintPro (actually, I already tried their water-based paint and it did not work well, not sticky enough -- going to mix the powder with some oil medium by myself now).

Very good, I have a complete picture now.

Thanks again, my best wishes on your holidays!

DONE!!!

The Zigmeister, you are my hero!

Even on your holidays you save me!

Now I just hope not to have messed things up too much with all my try here and there...

THANXXXX!!!!

btw: same pin press to reinsert the stem?

Argh! I have my 028 opened and exposed to all the threatens from the outside world, and I am unable to locate which screw I have to unscrew to release the crown stem! Mvmt: 2892A2.

HHEEELLLP!!!!!

The second one can't be right?

Try a net search for 'Patricia Araujo'...

As far as I know: no, it lasts forever.

Naturally, nothing is forever...

Congrats on your beautiful, balanced and unique timepiece!

I too am a lover of personal mods. May I ask you what did you use acrilic paint for?

Thank you for sharing your experience. Valuable info!

Modifying a dial could prove of even more general interest than darkening Ti, IMHO.

Be warned about tossing a whole watch in a warm/hot bath: water resistance is not assured at high temperatures, as metal (case parts) expands much more than rubber (o-rings & gaskets).

I believed that percarbonate was the active ingredient in that cleaner, as 'per-' compounds (perborate, percarbonate...) develop oxygen so to perform oxidation.

And 90% of the members of these boards would have been in the same boat if we didn't stumble across this site.

Ditto.

Btw: 91%

if you are not referring to members such as myself who pointed out the flaws, then who, pray, are you referring to?

Uhmm.... maybe I added to the general confusion here.

Apologies: I myself got quite confused -- and still I am.

Just some words as an explanation:

at first I only saw the watch dial, on TTK's post. Not being able to look at the caseback, I considered it a 228 (with flawed inscriptions) because of the blue dial and subdial and the SS case.

Then I saw the caseback, and it was consistent with the 089. So I considered it a mix 089/228, but more likely a 089 with a different (unaccurately repped) dial color and a different case material.

Then I found a line on Paneristi's site that said that F series (of 089) added a bracelet (like this watch actually has) and a new dial.

So my confusion was now complete -- and still it is.

I have been unable in finding any further info so far.