Rolexman

"SHOW ME THE EVOLUTION JERRY!" come on repeat after me "SHOW ME THE EVOLUTION, SHOW IT TO ME"

Sign me in... I've been waiting for this baby for ages!!

Sweet.. did you see the new Breitling Skyracer.. I like it... I LIKE I ALO =)

No way.. I want the 2006 model!! (click here)

Nice rep, where did you get it?

thanks guys!!

Dear The Zigmeister,

I received an Omega SMP with the 28800 BPH Asian 7750. Normally when unscrewwing the crown you feel this 'popping' feeling when the crown is completely unscrewed. It then is in the hand winding position. I don't really feel this pop. The crown just unscrews and then it is in the hand winding position....

Now here's the real problem: When hand winding the stem 'slips'. I don't know what else to call it? I can wind it 1 or 2 turns and then it slips, doing nothing just turning. Winding, slipping, winding, slipping etc...

Is there something wrong with the movement. Everyhing works fine, chronograph, resetting, timesetting etc.

Thanks,

Mark

Excelent review!!!

Damn fine watch but man, all those photobucket links suck!....

The pushers are on the wrong side?

Oh are they?... I don't think so! Only thing missing is the date @ 6 true!

2 weeks???.. you got to learn to have some patience newbie!!

What a great looking watch. I wonder if the caseback is engraved? Kinda looks like it's etched.....

http://www.trustytime.com/index.php?main_p...products_id=998

GOD DAMN IT!! Why not make the Evolution? I mean, the Chronomatic is a damn fine watch but compared to the EVO........

Look at my signature for a simple explanation on fine tuning.

The gator strap looks great!! An absolute killer. Try to get hold of a gen signed buckle (only USD 18,- new or even cheaper on the bay). That would be a picture perfect!!

The plot thickens...

Look at the pic of the box set.

http://www.wo-mart.com/product_info.php?products_id=1414

No wonder he's so cheap... he saves on photograph costs

Thanks Rene!!.... really appreciate it!

Ofwel bedankt

Hey Mark, I am an Optometrist so I do know some about coatings...

Light is reflected at both interfaces of an AR coating. The two reflected wave trains of a certain wavelength can cancel each other out totally by interference if both the phase and amplitude requirements are met.

By the appropriate choice of layer thicknesses and layer types, the phase requirement can be met for the reference wavelength (wavelength for which the AR coating is optimized). Interference then leads to a minimization of residual reflection. To achieve this, the layer thickness (t) must total one quarter of the reference wavelength. The thickness is just a few microns (1/1000 of a mm.)

By appropriately selecting the refractive indices of the AR coating layers, interference leads to a minimization of residual reflections. A suitable combination of lens and AR coating materials is decisive if the AR coating is to have an optimum effect.

The AR coatings work at different degrees across the color spectrum. Hence the anti-reflectance effect is not the same for all colors, which results in a slight color change to the lens. This color change can be controlled so that you get a pleasing cosmetic tint, such as light green, blue or red; which improves the overall appearance of the lens or in this case watch crystal.

When you polish the front of the crystal, (some) of the coating will wear off like an abbrasion.

When you want to completely remove th front caoting you can try to polish it of, but

it will be difficult to get a nice evenely result.

When we want to remove a coating from e.g. spectacle lenses we dip them in a

sulphuric acid (zwavelzuur) solution for a few minutes and rinse them with water.

However this will take off both sides' coating (in and out) .

The most of the blueish bloom comes from the front face reflection, and a little from the back, so when you

take the outer of you will lose most of the blue reflection.

I assume it is cheaper to replace the crystal instead of having it re-coated.

René

Thanks for the info friend!!... really complicated stuff if your English isn't that good . I don't understand why Breitling puts that stupid AR on the outside knowing it will damage or scratch very easily. The crystal is scratch resistant but the AR is not. Where's the logic in that?

we dip them in a sulphuric acid (zwavelzuur)

You're also from Holland right?

BY THE WAY: Why are the spots where the AR is gone yellowish?... why not clear white or slightly blue from the inner AR?

There is no such thing as an Italian replica and movement....

My Navi rep is coated inside only and I can tell you the blue tint would definitely disappear.

So removing the outher AR would make the blueish glare dissapear??

The inside reflection is always blue, but the outside reflection is white because it is on top.

But here you say the blueish glare comes from the inner AR....

I don't get it?

That sure would test how good a rep it is...

It's a gen..gen from genuine??.. duh

Hey mark,

Man, that sucks. Happened to my Chronomat when I let a moron at a watch stand in a mall polish up my Chronomat GT for free. The edges of the crystal around the bezel had zero AR when I got it back. Looked so stupid.

I ended it up selling the watch, because I couldn't stand to look at it anymore.

I'm thinking one of three things. 1. Just polish it all off. 2. Polish it all off and get it re-AR'd from an optician for Finepics. 3. Be sneaky and, if it's still under warranty, call Breitling USA and tell them it came that way from the jeweler you bought it from. Tell 'em you want it fixed.

Best of luck with that. Beautiful watch.

Thanks man!! A family member of mine works at an optician and a good friend of mine works at an authorized Beitling dealer so I could go for both of your options.

But the same problem remains.... the outher AR scratches easily so why not polish it off?... will the blueish glare become less or will it completely dissapear when I polish it off (the inner AR remains so?.....)?

Any other idea's?

After polishing the rider tabs on my Steelfish I saw that I damaged the AR coating. I also know most diver watches only have 1 sided AR (inside crystal) to prevent damaging. All gen Breitlings have 2 sided AR (god knows why?)

So here's my question:

Should I remove the outher AR coating or will this completely ruin the typpical blueish Breitling glare?

Will there still be a blueish glare if only the AR coating on the inside of the crystal remains?

Now it kinda looks if the crystal has yellow spots..... ( because the AR coating is gone on that spot).

Thanks

Mark

PS: What's the best way to remove the AR coating?

I can assure you that in Antwerp I can buy plenty of SOLID 18K gold Rolex replica's (in Antwerp they call it Geneve replica). Daytona, DD etc. They can even put in some real diamonds if you have the cash.

Prices between 2000-3000 Euro's (without the 'stones').

So forget Asia... go to Belgium on you next vacation

I don't like Cartier.......

Why didn't they rep the Breit Evolution? I think that one would bring them more bucks!!