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By-Tor

Diamond Member
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Posts posted by By-Tor

  1. This is what our own Kenberg posted in the PT thread:

    nothing wrong with 14k gold just as there is nothing wrong with 9k, believe me we have gold of all denominations in our household (9,10,14,18,22,24 and a couple others I'm sure) it's how that gold is used that makes it special no what carat it is.
  2. Agreed with Kruzer. The whole gold issue has ALWAYS been problematic. I remember some pretty heated TT Sub debates from TRC, even from years ago.

    here and here are the Precious Time gold threads, which both contain a lot of good info and opinions.

    As far as I know, Eurotimez put the sales of this watch on hold until the issue gets solved completely. That was a classy move, imho. Perhaps he could send one gold link to an independent party, who has the technical ability to test it?

  3. It's hollowed-out midlinks? The original is completely 100% solid I believe...

    No they're not. I've handled a gen TT Sub many times, I guarantee you that they're hollow. I doubt the TT Sub is many grams heavier than the stainless steel version. Even the TT Yacht-Master has hollow middle links, although they're solid on the SS version.

    Maybe the gold isn't 14K... maybe it is, but I think it's safe to say it's "solid", whatever the carat number is. From the practical standpoint I guess the more important thing is that it won't wear off, right?

  4. thank you By-Tor for this wonderful review and i have to have one of these very soon (like next week).

    But i have to ask this (forgive me if i am out of line). If i am not mistaken, Precious Time did the same thing

    in the past and there was some issue with it and he is no longer offer it anymore).

    So i am a little nervous.

    No, you're not "out of line" of course. I'm just as curious about this whole subject as everyone.

    I think PT mistakenly claimed that the bezel on one of his watches was solid gold, and it wasn't. He was misinformed by his supplier.

    I don't think those problems had anything to do with the bracelet. But I could be wrong, I had to go that old thread and check it out.

  5. Oh yeah, the gap DOES appear on a larger wrist too. My wrist is '8 and it was really noticeable.

    The bracelet and clasp on the 4th gen are absolute JUNK compared to the Ultimate version. I wish they'd make yet another round of the 42mm version with double AR, proper pearl and bracelet. In principle I like the smaller version a LOT more.

    On the other hand the 3rd Gen PO had very good bracelet (who still remembers that one?). Perhaps it could be swapped there?

  6. Link Chrono is one of the first "Super Reps". It was very difficult watch to shoot... extremely reflective. I've shot many kinds of watches but I always struggled getting a technically good photograph of it.

    This was the best I was able to do.

    2a.jpg

  7. Hmm... the gen could be measured at 44.5mm with the pushers?

    Favor Flav owned a gen, maybe ask from him?

    For the watches with tight subdial spacings the 7750 can never be 100% identical. Pretty unfair to complain about it, when there simply isn't a movement to use. It was excepted to be off... that doesn't bother me. But I don't understand either, why they didn't make the '9 and '6 subdial rings visually like on the gen. It could have been done easily. The rotor is another thing.

  8. The day/date thing is always a bit wonky, if it doesn't change just tweak the hands a little bit and try again... just like LR recommended. I don't think it's a big deal. But never, ever use any force with the day or date.

    You apparently had a little bit of bad luck with the bracelet. Reps have no quality control, but the good thing is that almost all problems on the reps arise right away. If you can fix it locally, it's always the best option. Ask a small discount from Andrew for your next purchase to cover the troubles.

    Congrats for the great purchase, Aquaracer chrono is one of my biggest favorites.

    7a.jpg

  9. Keep in mind that Tudor's use ETA movements

    Yes, I'm well aware of that.

    But genuine Tudor movement from a 100% original Tudor is still different than "bulk" ETA or "rotor decorated" cheap Asian.

    The rep is good, but, at $500-$600, not that good. If you can get the seller down to $250 or maybe $300, I might consider 1.

    Agreed. Although I think it's great that we finally see proper Tudor Submariner reps. $500 or $600 is still too much (for me).

  10. That looks nice madmacs69! The case looks like a vietnam-case and it's a got a genuine vintage tudor mvt.

    Are you sure about the movement?

    I know very little about movements, but when I bought my MBW Tudor rep I initially thought it had a genuine movement as well. Well, it turned out to be ETA 2842 with TUDOR engraving on the rotor. It's the same lowbeat movement that's used in Swatches. Very cheap one.

    Read here.

    I'm not saying this one isn't genuine, I'm just curious.

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